Syria: my memories of a safe and hospitable country

Posted on 3rd September, 2013

​In May 2001 my husband and I celebrated our 10th wedding anniversary. To mark the occasion we spent a very happy week visiting Syria. At that time, Bashar Al-Assad had been in power for just under a year. We found a country full of warm, friendly and hospitable people. It seemed they were full of hope - a sense of optimism that with the new president would come greater freedom and a move towards a more modern state. I'm sure this is an over-simplification but, as tourists, this was our impression. After a brief stay in Damascus, our anniversary itself was spent in Aleppo - often in the news for all the wrong reasons of late. We stayed in a wonderful hotel in the old town, enjoying delicious food and wine in their courtyard restaurant. The highlight for us was probably our visit to the souk - a place that didn't seem to have changed in centuries, and not remotely touristy, unlike so many of the souks we had visited in other countries. We moved on to visit a number of historical sites, including Crac des Chevaliers, St Simeon's basilica, Palmyra, Hama, the Byzantine 'dead cities'... to name but a few. No doubt about the photographic highlight for me, though: the ancient Roman ruins of Apamea.
The Roman ruins of Apamea, Syria, May 2001
The Roman ruins of Apamea, Syria, May 2001
It was amazing to walk along the wonderfully preserved stone slabs, polished smooth from centuries of use and also said to have been walked by Antony and Cleopatra. Our visit coincided with stormy skies and the odd shaft of sunlight - perfect for photography! Never during our time there did we feel threatened or worried - the Syrian people were welcoming without exception. Also very helpful when we carelessly managed to run out of petrol in the middle of nowhere... It is very hard to reconcile these memories with the situation that has been unfolding in Syria over the last few years. Such a desperately sad conflict and a tragedy for all those involved. I am certainly not going to try to turn this blog into any kind of political forum - partly because I am not qualified to do so, but also because I honestly cannot see that there is a clear answer as to what action should or can be taken. I can understand why the fear of unforeseen consequences is perhaps crippling the international response and, as much as I do not like the unseemly political point scoring that seems to have been taking place, I would not like to be the one trying to work out what an earth we can do to offer constructive, long term help. A solution seems a very long way away and, if I think that, imagine how the people of Syria feel. Somehow the international community surely must find a way to help?